Review: Volutes by Diptyque

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A smoky winter fragrance of honey and tobacco. Volutes

Volutes is the latest release from French fragrance house Diptyque. 

Created by Fabrice Pellegrin, who also created Do Son, it has head notes of iris flower, honey, tobacco and dried fruits, heart notes of pink and black pepper, saffron, hay and immortelle, and base notes of of opoponax, myrrh, styrax and benzoin. Overall, though, it is a smoky, tobacco-like scent that feels very in tune with winter.

Volutes is the French word for a swirl of smoke and is inspired by a sea trip the founder of the house used to make as a boy and his memories of glamourously dressed, perfumed women smoking their Khedive cigarettes on board ship. It is a very gentle fragrance in the EDT, which is the version I tried, with a very close sillage and moderate staying power of about four hours.

It’s my personal taste to prefer stronger fragrances – I’m a Tabu, Youth Dew and Tweed fan – so although it’s lovely, I feel this particular fragrance isn’t really for me, or at least not in this format – it’s quite possible the EDP might be more to my taste.

For those who want something softly tobaccoey, though, and find the Lutens fragrances like Chergui too much or too soapy to bear, it might be just the trick. It could safely be worn at work without offending, and then topped up for evening as required.

On this blue-eyed blonde, after a lovely 15 minutes of tobacco and smoke, it dries down with remarkable speed to a soft milky vanilla that feels more like a body lotion than a perfume, but fortunately that then lasts quite a long time, though I have to put my wrist right under my nose to detect it.

Volutes costs 82 euros for the 100ml EDT, 62 euros for the 50ml EDT and 95 euros for the 75ml EDP from perfumeries and department stores.


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